逢年過節、或者想不到吃什麼，就是來包水餃。
早年水餃裡的內餡會有山東白菜，但因為我喜歡吃高麗菜所以才會改成包高麗菜。當然後來我弟出生之後，因為喜歡韭菜，所以又改成韭菜。水餃的內餡隨著家族不同的喜好改來改去。但如同包起來的感覺，彼此包容各自的喜好，一同品嚐各自的滋味。
然而，餡料內有一個如如不動「食材」-冬粉！加冬粉的水餃餡，看起來像韭菜盒子、水煎包的內餡，對我們家來說，冬粉是重要的象徵。
因為我祖父是來自中國外省人，而我祖母是臺中的客家人，當時兩人婚後貧窮，居住的地方是臺中的山區附近，因為生下的小孩眾多。為了讓孩子們吃飽，所以在水餃餡裡摻入冬粉。
在下鍋烹煮的時後，肉汁流出，冬粉會吸收肉汁膨脹。外觀水餃看起來飽滿，一口吃下去後，還會有飽足感。我們家的一顆就可以抵兩顆。
後來延續這樣做法，我父親還會在餡料內摻入雞湯凍，讓豬肉汁與雞湯汁混合，讓冬粉吸收。風味更佳提升。
關於內餡還有一個小故事，在我祖母過世後，父親一直念念不忘他記憶中包著山東白菜的餃子味，花了許多時間調配內餡的比例，但一直找不到記憶中的那一味。
後來，他就想到是否我祖母有在內餡中摻入味精？他常常自豪不吃味精，下廚也堅持不用。但怎知道當水餃餡摻入味精之後，記憶中的味道就回來了，那一味原來就是味精。
水餃的造型也很多種類，除了一般造型之外，還有將水餃頭尾接合起來的戒指或官帽的造型，這常出現在我們家的餐桌上。
時至今日，隨著家族人數減少，過年的菜色也沒有多樣。只有包水餃這件事情一直不變，大家一起備料、拌餡到分工包，看著我兩個小姪女跟我媽一起包水餃。我感受到家族的傳承。
最後補上基本流程：
以120顆的餃子為例，度爸爸內餡配方：
備料階段
細絞肉2斤：1斤半五花肉(或三層肉)+半斤肥肉，請肉舖絞在一起
3札冬粉（先泡冷水軟化，然後剪碎）
高麗菜切絲(半顆-1顆)加點鹽抓一點出水(不用出太多有水就好)
蔥一把(切成碎)
處裡階段
絞肉放置臉盆內加入醬油、醬油膏、些許鹽、白胡椒、香油
用手將肉與調味料抓到有黏性
冬粉下去拌勻
高麗菜絲下去
拌勻後內餡完成
後面就是包裝階段、下鍋烹煮。
備註
可以加雞湯凍(需要前一天處理)
或用胡椒粒泡水(用水參入內餡)
Making dumplings is an important family tradition for me. During holidays or when we can't decide what to eat, we make dumplings.
In the early years, our dumpling fillings included Shandong cabbage, but since I preferred cabbage, we switched to that. Later, when my younger brother was born, he liked chives, so we started using chives instead. The fillings have changed over time to accommodate our family's preferences, embodying the idea of embracing each other's tastes and enjoying the flavors together.
However, one constant ingredient in our dumpling filling is cellophane noodles. The filling with cellophane noodles looks like that of a chive pie or pan-fried bun. For our family, cellophane noodles hold significant meaning.
My grandfatwas a mainlander from China, while my grandmother was a Hakka from Taichung. After they got married, they lived in poverty in the mountainous area of Taichung and had many children. To make sure the children had enough to eat, they added cellophane noodles to the dumpling filling. When cooked, the noodles would absorb the meat juices, swell up, and make the dumplings look plump and filling. One of our dumplings could be as filling as two regular ones.
My father continued this practice, even enhancing the filling by adding chicken broth gelatin, which mixed with the pork juices, making the flavor richer as the cellophane noodles absorbed both.
There's a little story about our dumpling filling. After my grandmother passed away, my father kept reminiscing about the dumplings with Shandong cabbage from his memory. He spent a lot of time trying to recreate the filling but could never get the taste just right. He eventually wondered if my grandmother had used MSG in the filling. Although my father prided himself on not using MSG in his cooking, he decided to try adding it to the dumpling filling. Surprisingly, the taste he remembered from his childhood came back—turns out, the missing ingredient was indeed MSG.
Our dumplings come in various shapes, including the traditional style and ones shaped like rings or official hats, which often appear on our family's table.
Today, even as our family size has decreased and our New Year dishes have become simpler, making dumplings remains a constant tradition. We all come together to prepare the ingredients, mix the filling, and wrap the dumplings. Watching my two little nieces make dumplings with my mom, I feel the continuity of our family tradition.
Here is the simplified recipe for making 120 dumplings based on my father's filling recipe:
Ingredients Preparation:
2 jin finely ground meat: 1.5 jin pork belly (or pork shoulder) + 0.5 jin fatty meat: Ground together by the butcher
3 bundles of cellophane noodles: Soaked in cold water until soft, then chopped
1/2 to 1 head of cabbage: Shredded and lightly salted to draw out some moisture (not too much, just until it’s slightly moist)
1 bunch of green onions: Chopped
Processing:
Place the ground meat in a large bowl. Add soy sauce, soy sauce paste, a little salt, white pepper, and sesame oil.
Use your hands to mix the meat and seasonings until the mixture becomes sticky.
Add the cellophane noodles and mix it
Add the shredded cabbage
Mix well and the filling is complete
Then Wrap the dumplings and boil the Dumplings
Notes:
You can add chicken broth gelatin (prepare a day in advance).
Alternatively, soak peppercorns in water (use the water to mix into the filling).
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《島嶼未來料理教室》Future Formosa Culinary Lab Profile Nr.059
31-40歲的臺中市以前是麵食類，現在因為身體狀況不能太多澱粉、減醣者，平均花費200元在餐費上。因為家裡獨有家鄉味而對飲食記憶留下深刻印象。如果世界末日終將來到，會選擇家人共享這一餐，既然是要世界末日不如跟家人一起聚餐吧！關於家庭的一道料理，他提到水餃。
"Noodle Lover, Reducing Starch and Sugar"
Male（31-40 yrs）/ Taichung City / 200 NTD per meal
Profound dining impressions were shaped by the unique hometown flavors of his family.
If the end of the world were to come, he would choose to share the meal with his family, believing it's best to gather together for a final meal.
As for a family dish, he mentioned dumplings.
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國立臺灣歷史博物館的第 1 個「公共飲食記憶 NFT 化」實驗計畫《超時空島嶼餐桌》
National Museum of Taiwan History's First NFT Experimental Project on Public Dining Memories《Time-Space Dining Tables》
「國立臺灣歷史博物館」為推動國家文化記憶庫之永續發展，融入當代議題、常民生活及在地關懷，連結博物館專業、數位創新思維與多元社群行動，以促進臺灣原生文化之活化運用，鼓勵全民共同開展記憶庫多元主題與主題素材近用。
本計畫案於112年推出《島嶼庫客 Islands Cooker》飲食記憶系列7支影片，探究臺灣飲食的歷史成因，113年延續「餐桌」的概念，加入「未來」元素，委由畸零地創造股份有限公司辦理《島嶼未來料理教室——NFT設計工作坊》，以記憶庫長期深耕之飲食記憶主題，透過非同質化代幣（Non-Fungible Token，以下簡稱 NFT）設計工作坊，增進記憶庫之內容與應用，落實臺灣原生文化之推廣。
《島嶼未來料理教室——NFT設計工作坊》以「推測設計」為核心，反思記憶料理的獨特性，其之於 NFT的當代意義及其飲食文化價值，並將工作坊延伸設計為「發掘身體飲食記憶，運用想像和推測來創造未來島嶼飲食文化」的參與式體驗活動。工作坊由編舞家與引導師，透過一連串的帶領、想像和對話，挖掘及連結蘊藏身體感知中的飲食記憶，並讓參與者書寫飲食記憶；接著由畸零地工作室與生成式AI 「ChatGPT 4o」協作製作出 「記憶食譜 NFT」及文字翻譯；最後線上場以「圍爐」的概念，讓參與者在雲端上互相分享與交流。
這些飲食記憶透過NFT不可替代、數位交換的特性，被永久保存並流傳，期望每個人都能回首屬於自己的飲食記憶和歷史，經由公共化的途徑與媒介，成為社會記憶的一部份，構築社群認同的可能。
To promote the sustainable development of the Taiwan Cultural Memory Bank, the National Museum of Taiwan History integrates contemporary issues, ordinary life, and local concerns. By combining museum expertise, digital innovation, and diverse community actions, it aims to revitalize and utilize Taiwan's indigenous culture. The museum encourages the public to collaboratively develop and access various themes and materials within the memory bank.
This project launched the "Islands Cooker" series of seven videos on culinary memories in 2023, exploring the historical origins of Taiwanese cuisine. Continuing with the concept of the "dining table" and incorporating "future" elements in 2024, the project entrusted Ground Zero Co., Ltd. to handle the "Islands Future Cuisine Classroom—NFT Design Workshop." By delving into the long-term themes of culinary memories from the Taiwan Cultural Memory Bank and utilizing the Non-Fungible Token (NFT) design workshop, the project aims to enhance the content and application of the memory bank, promoting the dissemination of Taiwan's indigenous culture.
The "Islands Future Cuisine Classroom—NFT Design Workshop" centers on "speculative design," reflecting on the uniqueness of memory cuisine and its contemporary significance and culinary cultural value in relation to NFTs. The workshop is extended into a participatory experiential activity, designed as "discovering culinary memories in body and using imagination and speculation to create future island culinary culture." The workshop, led by choreographers and facilitators, guides participants through a series of activities, including imagination and dialogue, to uncover and connect with culinary memories embedded in their bodily perceptions. Participants then write down their culinary memories. Next, Ground Zero Co., Ltd. collaborates with the generative AI "ChatGPT 4o" to create "Memory Recipe NFTs" and translate the texts. Finally, the online session, based on the concept of "reunion dinner," allows participants to share and exchange their experiences and creations in the cloud.
These culinary memories, preserved and circulated through the non-fungible and digital exchange characteristics of NFTs, are expected to be permanently stored and shared. The goal is for everyone to reflect on their own culinary memories and histories, making them part of societal memory through public pathways and media, thereby fostering a sense of community identity.
※本圖像為AI生成內容
※This image is AI-generated content.
