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屬於寶島的味道:臺式酒樓如何影響「臺灣味」

國家文化記憶庫專案推動中心 2026/01/29

從臺南香腸熟肉攤的經典菜色-蟳丸、喜宴桌的魚翅羹,到年菜席上的魷魚螺肉蒜,這些我們所熟悉的家常滋味,皆源自臺式酒樓文化的轉化與累積,臺灣是擁有豐富飲食文化底蘊的島嶼,四百年來,不同文化的移民帶來各自的生活方式與飲食記憶,在風土、物產與社會變遷中彼此融合交會,形塑今日多元而鮮明的「臺灣味」。飲食不僅關乎味覺,更反映人們如何使用食材、因應時代與理解土地。從宴席酒樓到日常小吃,料理形式隨時代演變,逐漸發展出兼具地方特色與文化意涵的飲食樣貌。臺式酒樓正是在此脈絡下誕生的重要場域,透過酒、菜與社交文化,深刻影響臺灣料理的風格與想像,也為理解臺灣飲食史提供一處關鍵入口。 How Taiwanese Banquet Restaurants (tsiú-lâu, 酒樓) during Japanese Rule Shaped “Taiwanese Flavor” Taiwan is an island with a rich foundation of food culture. Over the past four centuries, migrants from different backgrounds brought their own ways of life and culinary memories, which gradually merged through local climate, agricultural resources, and social changes to shape the plural and distinctive sensibility known today as “Taiwanese flavor.” Beyond taste, food reflects how people use ingredients, respond to their times, and understand the land. From banquet dining in tsiú-lâu to everyday eating, culinary forms evolved with changing times, developing foodways that combine local character with cultural meaning. Within this context, Taiwanese tsiú-lâu emerged as important social settings. Through alcohol, cuisine, and social life, they shaped the style and imagination of cooking, offering a key entry point for understanding Taiwan’s food history.

國家文化記憶庫專案推動中心編輯,個別被編輯素材得點擊鏈結至原頁面閱讀出處資訊,若有轉載利用之需求,請依各編輯素材之授權與限制範圍之指示,2026/01/29。

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